Before Korean Food Was Cool, Corey Lee Was Already Redefining It
Before Korean food was cool Corey – Corey Lee, now a trailblazer in the culinary world, carved his path long before Korean cuisine became a global phenomenon. Before the rise of K-pop, K-beauty, and the broader Korean cultural movement, Lee was already reshaping the narrative of Korean food through his innovative approach. His journey began in a place where Korean flavors were an afterthought, and his career took an unexpected turn toward elevating the cuisine to new heights.
A Culinary Awakening in a New Jersey Suburb
Lee grew up in Tenafly, New Jersey, a town where Korean food was not yet a staple. Gochujang paste was a rare find, and kimchi was far from a trendy garnish in urban restaurants. “Back then, I never imagined myself serving kimchi at a high-end establishment,” he reflects. The idea of Korean cuisine being a respected part of the global dining scene was unimaginable. However, this scarcity became the foundation for his unique perspective.
At just five years old, Lee relocated with his family from Seoul to the United States, where he spent his formative years in New York before settling in New Jersey. Raised by Korean parents, his early exposure to food was rooted in traditional practices, yet the culinary landscape he encountered in America was starkly different. His mother’s restrained yet flavorful cooking style, combined with his grandmother’s adherence to Buddhist dietary principles, left an indelible mark on his understanding of balance and umami. These influences would later shape his modern interpretations of Korean flavors.
From French Kitchens to Korean Innovation
Lee’s career began in the bustling kitchens of New York, where he initially pursued French culinary techniques. His first professional experience came in 1995 when he took a summer job at Blue Ribbon Brasserie, a decision that would redefine his life. “I fell in love with the kitchen instantly,” he recalls. The environment—intense, creative, and demanding—sparked a passion that grew beyond the summer months.
Despite his enthusiasm, his parents were skeptical. His mother, a typical Korean parent of her generation, viewed cooking as a domestic endeavor rather than a prestigious career. It wasn’t until Lee gained international acclaim and his achievements were highlighted in a Korean newspaper that she began to accept his path. This moment of validation marked a turning point in his mother’s perspective, allowing him to explore his heritage more freely.
Lee’s time in France-focused kitchens took him to London, where he honed his skills in some of the city’s most rigorous restaurants. His stint with Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in 2001 was pivotal. Keller’s philosophy of merging personal history with culinary artistry resonated deeply with Lee. “He taught me to infuse memories into the menu,” Lee explains. This approach inspired him to apply the same concept to his Korean roots, creating dishes that honored tradition while embracing modern techniques.
Reimagining Korean Cuisine with Benu and Beyond
In 2010, Lee took a bold step by opening Benu, a contemporary East Asian restaurant in San Francisco. This venture was a testament to his ability to blend Korean heritage with global influences. The menu featured a fusion of Chinese, Japanese, and Korean elements, such as 1,000-year-old eggs, Jinhua ham, and fermented chili paste, paired with French fine dining methods and fresh California ingredients. “I wanted to celebrate the food I grew up with,” he says. The result was a 12-course tasting menu that priced at $160 upon its debut but has since risen to over $425.
His success with Benu earned three Michelin stars, making him the first Korean chef to achieve this feat. The restaurant’s popularity underscored a growing appetite for Korean cuisine worldwide. However, Lee’s ambitions extended beyond fine dining. In recent years, he has brought his vision to more accessible formats, including a smart-casual Korean barbecue restaurant in San Francisco and a concept eatery in a Singaporean car factory. These ventures demonstrate his commitment to making Korean food both refined and approachable.
Lee’s collaboration with a prominent South Korean kimchi brand further exemplifies his innovative spirit. By transforming traditional kimchi into gourmet products, he bridges the gap between heritage and modernity. “The goal was to create something that feels familiar yet elevated,” he notes. This effort aligns with the broader trend of Korean cuisine’s global ascent, as exports of kimchi reached record levels last year, and the number of international outlets for Korean food companies surged by nearly 25% since 2020.
The Korean Wave and Lee’s Role in Its Culinary Evolution
As the Hallyu, or Korean wave, swept across the globe, from K-pop to K-beauty, Korean cuisine followed suit. The once-niche dish of kimchi now graces menus worldwide, and the export of traditional ingredients has become a significant cultural export. Yet, Lee’s contributions go beyond the surface. His work highlights how Korean food can be redefined through a balance of authenticity and creativity.
Lee’s mother’s home cooking style—mild, clean, and focused on umami—contrasted with his grandmother’s strict Buddhist diet, which emphasized aromatic herbs, fermented goods, and rich broths over pungent spices like onion and garlic. This duality informed his approach to seasoning, allowing him to craft dishes that are both comforting and sophisticated. “My family’s food was the starting point,” he says. “It taught me the importance of restraint and depth.”
His recent projects reflect this philosophy. The San Francisco Korean barbecue joint, for instance, offers a casual yet elevated experience, blending the communal spirit of traditional meals with contemporary presentation. Meanwhile, the Singaporean concept restaurant in a car factory reimagines space and culture, proving that Korean food can thrive in unconventional settings. These ventures are part of a larger movement to diversify how Korean cuisine is perceived and consumed.
Lee’s journey also mirrors the trajectory of the Korean wave itself. What began as a cultural export has now become a global phenomenon, with Korean food companies expanding their reach and fine dining establishments incorporating Korean elements into their menus. His work, however, stands apart for its intentional fusion of heritage and innovation. “I didn’t just want to showcase Korean flavors,” he explains. “I wanted to redefine what they could be.”
As a result of his efforts, Korean cuisine has evolved from a regional specialty to a celebrated global force. Yet, for Lee, the process is personal. He views his work as a way to honor his family’s traditions while pushing boundaries. “Cooking is a language,” he says. “It allows me to tell stories that connect the past with the present.” This sentiment captures the essence of his contributions, proving that Korean food’s global appeal is not just a trend but a transformative evolution rooted in personal and cultural identity.
Streaming the Future of Korean Culture
Streaming platforms have also played a role in amplifying Korean cuisine’s global presence. CNN’s original series, *K-Everything*, hosted by Daniel Dae Kim, explores the far-reaching impact of South Korean culture, including its culinary influence. The series is now available on CNN International, CNN All Access, and HBO Max, offering viewers a deeper understanding of how Korean food has become a symbol of cultural pride and innovation.
For Lee, this broader cultural movement is both a reflection of his own journey and a validation of his vision. From a time when Korean food was an overlooked element of American dining, he has helped establish it as a dynamic and respected cuisine. His path—from the kitchens of New York to the Michelin-starred halls of San Francisco—shows how a single perspective can reshape an entire culinary landscape. As the world continues to embrace Korean culture, Lee remains a vital figure in its evolution, proving that the future of Korean cuisine is as diverse and flavorful as its history.
His story is a testament to the power of perseverance and creativity. By drawing on his Korean heritage while embracing global techniques, Lee has not only redefined Korean food but also inspired a new generation of chefs to do the same. As the Korean wave continues to grow, his work stands as a bridge between tradition and innovation, ensuring that the cuisine remains both rooted and relevant in an ever-changing world.
